Nebbiolo

The Nebbiolo grape has found its way to Southern California and Baja California’s Guadalupe Valley.  The wines made from this grape are very highly regarded.  Indeed, Italy’s premiere wine is Barolo, “the king of wines, the wine of kings”, made from the Nebbiolo grape.  This grape also makes the highly acclaimed wine Barbaresco.  Yet there are only around 15,000 acres world-wide planted with this grape.  In comparison, world planting of Cabernet Sauvignon exceeds 700,000 acres.  So why aren’t there more Nebbiolo grape vines, and why is the grape being successfully grown in our part of the world?  I set out to find the answers to these questions by going directly to the source.  That’s right – I sought to get the answers by hearing from the grapevines.
The biggest problem I encountered, as might be expected, was how to communicate with the grapevines, or at least get them to tell me something other than the latest gossip.  Fortunately, I had portrayed a California Raisin many years ago for Halloween, and, being essentially a method actor, in preparation for the role I spent a few nights among the vines.  While this was not of much help in my Halloween role, it gave me some insight in how to approach the vines.  Of greatest import, I discovered that the vines do not actually talk.  They spread their gossip by rustling leaves and stems in such a manner as to create music.  For example, if they have info on a younger man fooling around with an older, married woman they will offer up the appropriate tune, i.e., “Mrs. Robinson”.
I began my query by asking these Nebbiolo grapes why they wanted to be to Southern California.  After a bit I could pick out strains from the “West Side Story” song “American”, mixed in with Neil Diamond’s “America”.  OK, not what I was hoping for.  I had to change my approach.
So, I asked them to tell me by song what there is about our area that allows them to grow such very fine grapes, ones that could make a wine competitive with Cabernet Sauvignon.  Well, mentioning Cabernet was a bad mistake, as they then went into a rendering of “Bottle of Wine”.  If you don’t know the song it is about a wino having trouble coming up with the loose change to purchase a very bad bottle of wine.
Then it hit me how to proceed.  They would play a tune relating what makes them like this area.  If I guessed what they were trying to say, they would offer up Neil Diamond’s “Red Red Wine”.  If I was wrong, I would hear “Bottle of Wine”.
The first number they put out was “I Heard if from the Grapevine”.  This really puzzled me.  The song seemed to go on and on, so I began to think they were just mocking me.  Then it hit me -- they were presenting me with the CCR’s long version of the song.  Could they be saying that they like the long Southern California growing season?  “Red Red Wine” was the answer.
Next, I seemed to hear the music to the song “It Never Rains in Southern California”.  So, you like drought, I asked them.  “Bottle of Wine” was the answer – no, they don’t like drought.  I asked for a second clue, and they came back with CCR’s “Born on the Bayou” followed immediately with “Bottle of Wine”.  It took a bit, but if you assume that “Bottle of Wine” is a no, then one can assume that they do not like bayou-type terrain.  And what’s the opposite of swampy land?  Very dry land, of course.  Could it be that the vines don’t like sitting water?  Bingo – and an offering of “Red Red Wine”.
Without asking, they then offered up Johnny Mathis’ song “Misty”.  Nicely done, I might add.  Now San Diego is on the Pacific Ocean, and the Pacific Ocean is pretty cold, even in the summer.  As the climate is also very dry, the temperature on the land drops very rapidly, lowering pressures and pulling damp air in from the ocean.  This damp air results in a mist that settles on the vines.  Nailed it – and my reward was more “Red Red Wine”.
The next tune was pretty straight forward – John Denver’s “Rocky Mountain High”.  The Nebbiolo grape is grown primarily in the mountainous Piedmont region of Italy, i.e., well above sea level.  The inland valleys in Southern California where one finds most of the vineyards are more than 2000 ft above sea level.  I nailed it again!  “Red Red Wine”.
I knew my interview with the vines was over when they went into the California Raisin’s version of “I Heard it through the Grapevine”.  But I came away with great insight into the Nebbiolo vines.  First, they like the long growing season that we have here in Southern California.  Second, they don’t like sitting water.  We have very little rainfall, and our very dry climate evaporates standing water rather quickly, especially when temperatures push up over 100 F, so there is little chance of standing water if the vines are grown on any kind of an incline.  Added to this is the clay-cobble nature of our soil which keeps water from soaking in (and leads to flooding even for relatively mild rains).  Third issue is mist – they like it, and we have it in the inland valleys and even in the mountains.  As for the fourth issue, well, our terrain goes from sea level to around 6,000 ft.
On my way out of the vineyard, the Nebbiolo grapevines suggested that I steer clear of the Tempranillo grape fines with two tunes – “Man of La Mancha” and the theme song from “The Godfather”.  Seems the Tempranillo grapevines are not too thrilled with my bashing them every chance I get.
Anyway, it appears that Nebbiolo grapes have a great future here in Southern California!  Now if I can just find a way to replace all of the Tempranillo vines with Nebbiolo vines….