Nebbiolo -- serious discussion

From Doc Ed:
​Nebbiolo is an uncommon grape, but several San Diego County vineyards have recently started to grow it.  Worldwide, there are only 15,000 acres (23 square miles) planted, and less than 10% (less than 3 square miles) exist outside of Italy.  The grape naturally produces a large amount of acid, and a very large amount of tannins in the skin and seeds.  You might think that a grape that rare might not have many variations and is easy to describe.  Not true!  This tasty wine has many presentations, mostly due to variations in winemaking techniques including extraction and barrel storage.
 
The two main presentations of Nebbiolo that I would like to focus on are the New World and Old World.  Old World Nebbiolo comes from northern Italy.  The New World grows Nebbiolo in several countries including USA (Southern California), Mexico (Guadalupe Valley), and New Zealand. 
 
Nebbiolo from the New World produces a wine that is light to medium bodied, transparent, full of flavor, and has a variable amount of soft tannin.  The flavors usually are fruit (red fruit dominant, such as strawberry or cherry) with some herbal (rose) aroma.  Nebbiolo has many flavor similarities to Pinot Noir, particularly Pinot from cooler climates such as Oregon or Burgundy, France.  Nebbiolo wine can differ from Pinot Noir by having more acid (crisp flavor, comes from slow ripening of the grape) and more tannin (dry mouth sensation, comes from exposure to grape skin, seeds and oak barrel).  New World Nebbiolo wine commonly is made with limited exposure of the grape juice liquid to the grape skin and seeds (7-10 days typically), in order to control the extraction of tannin into the juice.  New World winemakers may further control tannins by limiting the exposure of the young wine to oak barrels (typically 10-12 months).  The net effect produces a wine that is fruity, has variable amounts of tannin, and has flavors somewhat similar to Pinot Noir.  It is designed to be consumed within a few years of harvest, and is unlikely to have extensive ageing potential.
 
Old World Nebbiolo wine is made in northern Italy, and the best-known region is Barolo.  The Old World style (which includes Barolo, Barbaresco and several other Italian DCOGs) produces a wine that is very different from the New World style.  While the wine will be medium bodied, transparent, and very aromatic like the New World version, the similarities end there.   During fermentation, Old World wines usually have over three weeks of contact with skin and seeds, resulting in maximal extraction of a massive amount of tannins.  In addition, the young wine must then be aged in barrels for at least 18 months which adds even more tannins and other flavors.   Because Old World wine have so much tannin from the extraction and barrel time, it is difficult to drink it unless it is at least 10 years old.  During that lengthy ageing process, the tannins slowly chemically change to produce a totally different taste that includes herbal and earth flavors and a very smooth lubricating glycerol sensation.  The net effect produces a unique wine that needs at least 8-10 years before opening, and many will last 20-30 years or more.
 
Whether you have access to New World or Old World Nebbiolo, the wine’s inherent characteristics of acidity and tannin make it an ideal pairing for roasted meats or high fat cheese.  This is because the proteins in the food will bind with residual wine tannins, reducing the drying sensation in your mouth.  Enjoy your young New World wines, or aged Old World wines, or experiment with those few New World places that are attempting to bridge the gap and produce an age-worthy masterpiece.